With this memorable account of 17 trips he designed to Hawaii’s North Shore beginning in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area’s top notch, the superstars who live to overcome Hawaii’s deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Tag Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.